k-huevo
10-29-2006, 10:48 PM
Front camber on the MINI is non-adjustable and the stock setting of -.5 degrees is very close to no camber at all. That’s fine for straight line driving but we get more enjoyment on the curves. Without negative camber the tire tends to role over on its sidewall during a turn distorting the contact patch and reducing available traction. Most of us have experienced unpleasant noise feedback from the front tire and a feeling like the car is taking a wider arc than we planned for. One treatment for that symptom is to smooth out driver input; a good habit and something to strive for, tire pressures are critical as well. Another approach is to increase negative camber so that when weight transfers to the outside wheel, more tread surface area, instead of tire shoulder, is placed on the road. Think about running around a corner, the outside leg is extended to gain traction.
To gain camber adjustability on the front the stock guide supports must be changed. Slotting the tower mounting points could also yield some adjustability but at the expense of structural integrity; not the route I would want to take given the vulnerability to deformation our strut towers have. Adjustable camber plates are available for which an individual can dial-in the amount of negative camber he/she desires. The downside to most of the adjustable plates is a hard mounting of the strut shaft and spring hat; not a concern for competition use but for the daily driver this can be uncomfortable. Fixed camber plates become an attractive option because they retain a spherical bearing housed in a vibration absorbing bushing resembling the stock method. Because the daily driver is more accepting of compromises a middle ground of camber can be useful without increasing tire wear and still be an improvement over stock settings.
I installed a set of Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates to increase negative camber. These plates have a thicker mounting plate which may help prevent tower deformation when an unusually strong jolt is encountered. They also have long mounting studs which would benefit those who have strut bracing. The stock studs don’t have much extra thread available for the added thickness of strut brace construction.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0312.JPG
Unfortunately my build is somewhat of an oddball; this is nothing new to me, I’ve had to deal with many situations where my car doesn’t fit the usual mold. A little research reveals I may have European 2002 spec body parts. There is a ridge behind the driver’s side strut that prevented mounting the original -1.25 degree plates. The spring would bind against the ridge when the strut was compressed. I also tried to mount with stock springs and still had contact.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0316.JPG
Jeff Ireland agreed to make a one-off custom set of plates to accommodate the impinging ridge; notice the offset bearing placement.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0341.JPG
Moving the mount back .200” gave me this clearance and allowed me to get all the benefits of these plates. The alteration provided -1.3 degrees camber after settling using JCW springs which lower the vehicle a little more than .5 inch.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0349.JPG
This is a very worthwhile modification on par with adding a stiffer rear anti-sway bar without most of the drawbacks. In the hierarchy of changes on my vehicle I would put this near the top and wish this would have been done much sooner.
More photos are in my gallery that wouldn't fit here.
To gain camber adjustability on the front the stock guide supports must be changed. Slotting the tower mounting points could also yield some adjustability but at the expense of structural integrity; not the route I would want to take given the vulnerability to deformation our strut towers have. Adjustable camber plates are available for which an individual can dial-in the amount of negative camber he/she desires. The downside to most of the adjustable plates is a hard mounting of the strut shaft and spring hat; not a concern for competition use but for the daily driver this can be uncomfortable. Fixed camber plates become an attractive option because they retain a spherical bearing housed in a vibration absorbing bushing resembling the stock method. Because the daily driver is more accepting of compromises a middle ground of camber can be useful without increasing tire wear and still be an improvement over stock settings.
I installed a set of Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates to increase negative camber. These plates have a thicker mounting plate which may help prevent tower deformation when an unusually strong jolt is encountered. They also have long mounting studs which would benefit those who have strut bracing. The stock studs don’t have much extra thread available for the added thickness of strut brace construction.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0312.JPG
Unfortunately my build is somewhat of an oddball; this is nothing new to me, I’ve had to deal with many situations where my car doesn’t fit the usual mold. A little research reveals I may have European 2002 spec body parts. There is a ridge behind the driver’s side strut that prevented mounting the original -1.25 degree plates. The spring would bind against the ridge when the strut was compressed. I also tried to mount with stock springs and still had contact.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0316.JPG
Jeff Ireland agreed to make a one-off custom set of plates to accommodate the impinging ridge; notice the offset bearing placement.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0341.JPG
Moving the mount back .200” gave me this clearance and allowed me to get all the benefits of these plates. The alteration provided -1.3 degrees camber after settling using JCW springs which lower the vehicle a little more than .5 inch.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0349.JPG
This is a very worthwhile modification on par with adding a stiffer rear anti-sway bar without most of the drawbacks. In the hierarchy of changes on my vehicle I would put this near the top and wish this would have been done much sooner.
More photos are in my gallery that wouldn't fit here.