Swaybar Install

[k-huevo]

Tools Needed:
13mm, 16mm, 17 mm, and 21mm sockets
Ratchet
17mm open end wrench
Breaker bar
Socket extension
Pry bar
Torque wrench
Materials:
Automotive jack
Jack stands
Wheel chucks
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0487.JPG

Lift the vehicle high enough to work underneath the rear, support the rear of the car with stands and place wheel chucks in front of the front wheels. Remove the rear wheels using a 17mm socket and breaker bar. Use a 17mm open end wrench behind the swaybar on the drop link bolt to hold it while removing the nut with a 16mm socket and ratchet.
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Take the brake line and ABS sensor wire off the strut.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0475.JPG

[k-huevo]

Loosen the rear strut lower support bolt with a 21mm socket.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0476.JPG

Remove both struts' upper bolts with a 13mm socket.
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Move the strut out of the way on one side, and on the side the bar is to be pulled from, remove the strut entirely.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0479.JPG

Remove the outer subframe bolts with a 16mm socket; a long breaker bar will make it easier to loosen the bolt and a socket extension to help access it, use a ratchet to unscrew the rest of the way out.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0481.JPG

[k-huevo]

Remove the inner subframe bolts.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0482.JPG

With the subframe disconnected and lowered slightly, a ratchet will fit above the rear bolt head on the swaybar bracket; remove the sway bar brackets.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0484.JPG

Use a prybar to persuade the subframe to drop a little more, allowing the swaybar end over the subframe bracket. Caution, only force the subframe the minimum distance required to let the swaybar past.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0485.JPG

The MCS has battery cables routed behind the subframe; take care when pulling the swaybar out. A standard Cooper doesn’t have these in the way.
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[k-huevo]

Install the new swaybar in reverse procedure.
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Fasten the swaybar bushing mounting brackets; apply torque at 14 ft-lb.

Start the outside subframe bolts first. In order to align the subframe hole with the chassis bolt hole, grasp the swaybar, push upward and towards the vehicle’s front. Screw the bolt in about half way.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0493.JPG

If it’s difficult to get things to line up, use something that will insert into the alignment hole on the subframe bracket, leveraging the subframe into place. I’m using a centering bar in this picture.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0491.JPG

Move the struts back to their original orientation. Install the subframe center bolts; screw in until almost tight, also screw in the outer subframe bolts until almost tight, tighten the middle bolts, then the outer bolts. Loosen the bolts again to allow the subframe to release some tension, starting with the middle bolts torque to 74 ft-lb.

Place the jack’s lift pad under the trailing arm and raise the strut into position so the upper mounting bolts can be fastened; torque the bolts to 41 ft-lb.
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Torque the rear strut lower mount bolts to 103 ft-lb.

Attach the swaybar drop links and torque to 41 ft-lb

Put the brake cable and ABS wire back in their places on the strut body.

Mount the wheels; in a cross pattern, torque the lug bolts to 89 ft-lb, and lower the vehicle

[justintime]

wow if I only had this a month ago! great job as always :]

[hops]

Beautifully done! A few quick questions: How long did this take you? (x3 for me probably) How has it affected your handling? Would you recommend this modification for a spirited daily driver with no track/autocross use? Thanks for your expert opinions.

-Erik

[k-huevo]

I’m sorry it took so long to answer you hops, but it wasn’t until recently someone was around to take note of elapsed time; Scandune and I did an install on his car in a little under 3hrs. Hopefully Josh will chime in with his initial impressions.

There is no doubt a larger rear sway bar will have an effect on steering behavior. I’m satisfied with only 1mm over stock (18mm/17mm) but I prefer the inherent front wheel drive characteristics of the MINI, and I have other suspension modifications that take up the slack. A 19mm bar, which is 2mm over stock for the MCS, will provide close to neutral (but not quite) steering behavior, the rear will still stay in its place predictably, and little in the way of comfort is sacrificed. A 19mm rear bar is my recommendation for the widest range of usage. Stepping up to a 22mm effective rate or greater will have the most dramatic impact. A fat rear bar can be fun at first, but after 40k miles I became weary of living on the edge in tight fast corners or driving in the wet; a stiff rear bar requires more throttle attention to keep the rear in the rear. There is also some loss in daily driving comfort with a 22mm or greater rear bar.