Front Control Arm Bushing Install

[k-huevo]

There’s more than one way to access the front control arm bushings for replacement. One option is to extract and install the bushing sleeve while on the vehicle as 002 illustrates. http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63869

I prefer to access bushings by dropping the subframe performing the installation out from under the vehicle. Here’s a thread with details about dropping the subframe completely. http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449

With the subframe out, remove the two bolts from the outer ball joint mounting brackets with a 16mm socket and rotate the brackets 180 degrees.
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There’s a BMW tool for pulling the control arm from the bracket and reinserting, without it there are a few alternate ways. With the bracket still attached, place a pry bar between the control arm hexagonal shaft flange and the sleeve and pry away. As it moves further out place shims in the expanding space to help with leverage. Safety tips when using pry bars keep your head out of the way and take a solid stance with your feet before applying leverage. It may be necessary to lean down to position the control arm away from the subframe to provide clearance while simultaneously prying; this is where there is the greatest risk of knocking yourself on the forehead or ending up in a drunken horse stumble if it lets go.
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[k-huevo]

If the bushing is torn it will probably separate from the sleeve. If that happens, spray Windex around the hexagonal shaft and twist the bushing with channel locks while giving a mighty tug.

After the control arm is extracted, remove the bracket bolts with an 18mm socket.
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The bushing and bracket can be removed with the control arm still attached as a complete unit. The Windex and twist method can be used to pull it free but it is better accomplished with an assistant or something to secure the control arm; this way is a little tough but doable.

I also prefer to swap out the brackets (rpart numbers Left-31 12 6 757 561, Right-31 12 6 757 562) rather than replace the bushings only, but there are instances where extracting the bushing sleeve is advantageous. Here are some photos of the BMW bushing installation and extraction tool. The large washer is not an OEM component.
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The non-OEM washer is used to start the bushing sleeve moving (the edges of the tool become worn with use causing it to slip into the sleeve so a little help will save some grief), once the sleeve is flush with the bracket, the end piece can be turned around and used as intended to extract the bushing.
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[k-huevo]

Here is the stock bushing sleeve.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0704.JPG


The tool can also be used to install Powerflex bushings. A word of caution from experience, if the control arm bracket is removed from the subframe; be sure the bracket and bushing are oriented correctly before pressing in a replacement bushing or aftermarket alternative. I was interrupted by the UPS delivery person while doing the install one time and when I returned to the task I was facing a different direction to the work table and ended up pressing in the bushings backward. I’m not the only one having made this mistake.
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I’ve used Moly assembly lube and chassis grease in the past to make it easier to insert the control arm hexagonal shaft in the stock bushing but Paul & Jesse at the MINI Center cautions against that type of lube (anti-seize included) because it can cause the shaft to slip during vehicle operation creating frictional heat which accelerates bushing failure. They say it’s safer to use something that will evaporate like Windex as lubricant.
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I use a hydraulic spring compressor to press on the bushing but if you have enough body mass for leverage, the control arm can be leaned on, or stood on like a pogo stick (be sure to have something to stabilize yourself). Our MINI techs put the control arm in a vise and hammer the bushing on with a rubber mallet. Someday I will get the proper tool.
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[k-huevo]

After pressing the bushing on the shaft most of the way, perform a test install to be sure it’s in far enough for the inner ball joint bracket and the bushing bracket’s bolts to line up with the corresponding holes in the subframe and adjust if necessary.
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Notice the gap is still a little too large when the bolt holes don’t line up. It is better to stop early and not to go all the way because it will be more difficult to pull the control arm back out than micro-move the bracket or arm in further.
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You don’t have to be as precise as I show here, but for this install the gaps between the bushing bracket and control arm on each side were less than .5mm different; about as good as you can get to help keep caster similar for each front wheel.
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After all is aligned (run the sway bar and control arm through their range of motion), torque the bushing carrier bracket to 122 ft-lb and the inner ball joint bracket to 74 ft-lb.