SPC Performance Camber Links

[k-huevo]

I’ve gone full circle on more than a few suspension alterations; at the moment it’s a return to rubber for all bushings, front and rear. For greater control and heightened feedback from the rear wheels, solid contact from the axle carrier to the rear trailing arm using metal Hiem or pillow-ball joints, is the way to go. The downside on the street is increased transmission of extraneous road energy. As an annoyance this would be a non-issue for many, especially those involved in competition, and it didn’t bother me most of the time I used them. My experiences with polyurethane bushings have been less than favorable after long term street use so that leaves rubber as the only currently available buffering option.

SPC Performance adjustable control arms/camber links/wishbones have been available for a long time but they’ve been given very little lip service. SPC arms use an elstokinematic style bushing much like the stock control arms.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0689.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0688.JPG

These things are stout compared to most slim aftermarket offerings, but because of their aluminum construction they don’t feel any heavier than stock, and they certainly are unyielding against any unlikely bending or torsion forces. Esthetically, they look great, to the person driving behind you.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0754.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0752.JPG

[k-huevo]

The former set of control arms were solidly connected pillow-ball joint Megan’s http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307 .
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0230.JPG

I put the original stock uppers back in place along with the newly installed SPC arms. Just as I noticed an increase in control and feedback from installing Megan’s pillow-ball arms, I noticed an immediate loss of telegraphed tire to road information (both good and bad) after returning to rubber bushings. As with many performance suspension products, there are tradeoffs; for my usage in this case, it’s an acceptable change for the time being. The east bound lanes of IH 10 south of Leon Springs are punishing at speed, for the last month it has been a little more tolerable than it was with the solidly connected control arms.

[justintime]

:thumbsup those look pretty sweet, and even better in person

[dwjj]

I hadn't seen those. I like them-great to see ideas! Thanks!

[weezer2282]

Keith, what tools do you use to get access to the inner rear control arm bolts and nuts? I ended up being able to get the 2 lower arms off today using an 18mm socket and a universal joint extension on a 3/8" drive, but it was less than ideal. It worked but was difficult to keep the socket on the bolt with the universal extension. I used an open end wrench on the nut.

[k-huevo]

I use the same thing except with a breaker bar and cock the universal to the side so it locks.

[weezer2282]

Thanks Keith.

They were much easier putting the new ones back on then getting the old ones off. The Helix arms are nice and stiff. I like it. Only changed the lower arms though. The uppers I will save for another time cause they have the headlight leveler to deal with too.

[mini_racer]

Hey K have you found a decent source for those SPC lower control arms? I can't seem to find them online for less than $295.

[k-huevo]

BTW, this price is less than I can purchase wholesale. http://buyloweringsprings.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=5.67610&x=14&y=8
The photo does not represent the product.

[mini_racer]

Wow, not cheap, but does seem to be a quality product.

[GreyLens]

Wow. I really like the look. And they do their job. I'll have to take a strong look at these in my mod plan. So far, the plan is getting pretty high end but this product looks to be a great fit at a reasonable price. Thanks for the post.

[mini_racer]

For your plan, you only need lower control arms if you lower say more than one inch. The lower you car gets the more negative camber is introduced at the rear wheels due to suspension geometries.

The OEM lower control arms have a limited amount of camber adjustment available from the model year 2005 and forward, earlier cars have none. Anyway, if you lower more than an approx an inch, after market adjustable control arms are required to dial out some of that extreme negative camber in the rear.

So, you may or may not need this mod, depending on your lowering plan.

I have the TSW V3 springs (7/8" lower in rear) on my '06 car and the OEM arms can adjust just barely enough to maintain a reasonable rear camber.

[GreyLens]

Good point.

I have a pretty aggressive/crazy set of goals in mind that will likely lead to an unusual configuration for a MINI. I might go ahead and explain it in some detail soon because I want to get K-Huevo's input and the discussion might be interesting to others...though, I don't think I want to post on a board outside our club. I've been reading many of the posts on suspension on four other boards and the debate gets quite intense.

Part of my current plan does include NOT lowering my mini by much...about like what you've done. So, you're point is well taken.

But, even if I don't really need them they do look way cool.