New Tune for Panda

[k-huevo]

A different engine tune is in the works for my MCS. After the last 30,000 miles with the 19% pulley and the GIAC/Helix flash, it was time for a change.

To take advantage of the recent advancements in engine management programming, my ECU flew off to Lucky Dog Garage for a generic flash. All previous ECU programs were eliminated and the latest updates for my model year were installed, the LDG flash was then written over the updated stock program. This is the most aggressive and comprehensive flash I’ve had to date. Throttle response is so precise it feels like there is a cable linked from the accelerator pedal to the throttle body butterfly instead of a signal carried by electronic wiring.

To see how the program was affecting performance, I located a Dynapack dyno owned by an independent race team. The reason this type of load-bearing dyno was chosen is because LDG also uses one, this way we would be on a similar page when evaluating the data. A Dynapack is unique in that it attaches directly to the vehicle’s drive hub for increased accuracy; variables like wheel diameter & weight, tire friction losses, and tie-down tension, are removed from influencing the outcome.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0803.JPG

All the drivability shortcomings I had looked for the 19% to improve upon have been addressed by the ECU tune, and the limitations imposed by extremely overdriving the supercharger were rendered unnecessary, so previous concepts appeared to need amendments. The first thing to change was the pulley size; I swapped the Endyn modified supercharger and 19% (left) with a JCW’s (right) running an 11% reduction pulley.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0812.JPG

BTW, the idler pulley was failing (77,000 miles) and was replaced at the same time. Having the 15% for the early 40,000 miles I already knew what that was like; time for new directions.

Without extra heat generated by the smaller pulley, the original intercooler could be put back in service, and the GP intercooler sold to fund further changes. A later model under hood air duct was installed, replacing the early model duct with the rubber threshold; I could never keep the old rubber threshold from bending upwards for very long, obstructing some of the incoming cooling air flow.

I have always liked the stock air box and it performs adequately up to around 6,500 rpm with a clean filter. With a raised rev limiter the engine needs better top end air flow to make the most of the increased range. I performed a flapectomy on a JCW air box to keep the rear of the box open at all times and replaced the restrictive stock cellulose filter with a Nanofiber filter.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0818.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0820.JPG

[k-huevo]

http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0821.JPG

This type of filter does not need oil and can be cleaned with a vacuum.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0819.JPG

In the process of installing the box I discovered dry rot had cracked the rubber on the throttle body bellows around the valve cover vent hose bung, so the JCW air box install will wait till the new part comes in.

There will be some really neat additions to the “new” tune in the coming weeks.

[Will]

sweet! where is LDG at?

[k-huevo]

LDG is in Glenwood Maryland http://www.luckydoggarage.com/

Unfortunately John has discontinued the mail-order flash option; the tuning is now only performed in house. This last weekend, the first group tune was conducted in Miami; this may or may not be an option in the future because most off-premise locations are lacking in critical diagnostic tools.

[justintime]

what were the numbers? improved? ALSO which one of my buddies called your car panda? I forgot about that but someone told me about it haha

[k-huevo]

Actually, he called it a topless "Oreo" which I like better than Panda, but it had already been named. When the tune as I envision it is complete, I’ll release numbers, because it is area under the torque curve and early rpm deltas that I’m most interested in. The purpose of that session, was to gain data, establish a baseline for that dyno, and do a safety evaluation; some vehicles can be peculiar and I wanted to be sure I hadn’t created a grenade.

Now that IAT has been reduced because of the larger pulley, it’s time to return to stock heat range plugs; according to LDG, the plug that performs best with their tune is the original OEM spark plug. With about 50,000 miles on the current set of plug wires I feel it is also time for some new OEM wires; good by blue, hello new.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0828.JPG

[justintime]

Actually, he called it a topless "Oreo" which I like better than Panda, but it had already been named. When the tune as I envision it is complete, I’ll release numbers, because it is area under the torque curve and early rpm deltas that I’m most interested in. The purpose of that session, was to gain data, establish a baseline for that dyno, and do a safety evaluation; some vehicles can be peculiar and I wanted to be sure I hadn’t created a grenade.

Now that IAT has been reduced because of the larger pulley, it’s time to return to stock heat range plugs; according to LDG, the plug that performs best with their tune is the original OEM spark plug. With about 50,000 miles on the current set of plug wires I feel it is also time for some new OEM wires; good by blue, hello new.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0828.JPG



doh, I could have given you mine haha. they only have 400 miles on them

[k-huevo]

The latest tuning component is a custom designed, sequential header. One of the unique features is the 1 &3 and 2&4 primary pipe paring to promote scavenging by taking advantage of the MINI’s firing order.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0911.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0903.JPG

The header has an extra bung for occasional wide band use.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0910.JPG

I requested an accordion style flex section and combined with a high flow cat overall length increased by almost three inches.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0915.JPG

[k-huevo]

As a result, a few inches had to be removed from the cat back; a hack saw and coupler took care of that. The longer secondary merge and collector also moved the pre-cat O2 sensor down six inches further. I recovered an extra seven and a half inches of sensor wire length by cutting the engine harness and pealing back the sensor’s feed wire.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0822.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0825.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0927.JPG

I massaged the heat shield to fit but I was a little heavy handed and some reinforcement bracing will be required to keep it from cracking further.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0926.JPG

I was well aware of increased sound level potential by removing the first cat, increasing pipe diameters, and introducing a high flow cat, so I installed the original stock exhaust. Indeed the header changed the sound volume and note; more than the stock exhaust can handle, and I have some plans for that issue. The note is deep and rich, but too loud for me in the current configuration.

During a drive out 337 performance was improved during torque intensive maneuvers like passing a cement truck while going up a 30 degree grade, but at this point it’s hard to differentiate performance, when it sounds like there are two Ducati motorcycles in the boot.

[justintime]

ya, noise can make it a hard factor in telling gained performance

[k-huevo]

After 500 miles the ceramic coating began flaking from one of the primaries.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0936.JPG

While attempting to remove the header, the pre-cat O2 sensor would not unscrew, so I returned the header to the fabricator to extract the sensor and take the header back to the coating applicator. In the mean time I bought a Flowmaster resonator and had a 2.5 to 2.25 inch transition and flange welded to it.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0956.JPG

Craig Lutz at Cradin helped me with the header heat shield by riveting support straps to the top and drilling crack stop holes at the stress crack ends to prevent them from progressing further.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0959.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0948.JPG

[k-huevo]

And, Cradin ceramic coated the OEM exhaust tips.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0935.JPG

The header is back and on the MINI; it’s sure nice to have the midrange surge again. Because I replaced the pre-cat O2 sensor I went ahead and replaced the post-cat sensor also. I’m about 20,000 miles early from MINI’s recommended replacement for these sensors but I’ve noticed a slight improvement in performance and gas mileage so it was time.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0961.JPG

The resonator will be welded on soon.

[k-huevo]

The Flowmaster resonator is finally installed.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0963_714645.JPG

This short resonator is highly effective at reducing overall sound levels. It couldn’t eliminate the 2,300 rpm buzz completely, but it is much more tolerable.

I took the opportunity to position the post-cat 02 sensor in a better protected location.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN0965.JPG

[Will]

I want a ride :)

[k-huevo]

An exhaust modification to reduce back pressure, proven to produce increases in horsepower and torque, and it’s relatively easy to do, and inexpensive, it sounds pretty good too, the one-ball mod. Another component of Panda’s new tune.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1010.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1009.JPG

[justintime]

the one ball sounds amazing. Hope you get everything resolved! also, reguarding your flash. I have been reading on the unichip and talking to people.. and everyone has the same storry on it. apparently the unichip is overided by our ECU after a while of use. Has this happend with yours? or is it a tune like the rmw tune?

[k-huevo]

The UniChip corrupts signals from sensors to fool the ECU, the ECU “learns” to compensate over time to maintain its protective mission. The LDG/John Behe custom tune is enabled by DimSport which re-writes the fundamental tables and maps so the ECU can not revert to its old ways; Jan Brueggemann’s tuning entity (RMW is considered one and the same) uses DimSport also, so in that sense the flash is similar. The LDG flash “stuck”, throttle response and torque delivery is as sharp as ever.

Justin alluded to something needing to be resolved, what he is referring to is a failed resonator and a fitment issue created by the shop that performed the most recent welding job. This is the second Hushpower resonator to fail; because of the holidays I haven’t received any feedback from the manufacturer, but most likely I will be trying a different product this next go round, the fitment issue is easily corrected with a cut and splice.

[k-huevo]

I tried an inexpensive Chinese manufactured resonator in the section behind the center exhaust mounting bracket.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1017.JPG

I learned something new when fitting this piece, 303 stainless steel can not be cold-bent. A section of my resonator delete pipe split, requiring a cut & splice welded coupler.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1023.JPG

It fixed one resonant problem area in the rpm range but created another at a different location. In the mean time, the ceramic coating failed again. I’m not willing to spend more effort trying to shoehorn a different, larger resonator, in the limited space directly behind the cat, so the custom header will not be re-installed after the latest coating. BTW, Evans will be applying a very special product this go-round.

A small Chinese cheapo resonator went in the post-cat space and now there are two resonators in tandem.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1030.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1031.JPG

With the OEM header bake in place, plus the tandem resonators, the one-ball is quieter than stock at low to midrange rpm, but growls at WOT. Unfortunately, after numerous splices and weld applications, the tips are no longer centered, but it sure sounds pleasant.

[k-huevo]

The cheapo resonator failed; I was prepared with a larger one to help with a new/old header project. This 5 inch resonator fits without hanging down further than the chassis.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1096.JPG

Every thing old becomes new again.

Another OEM modification to improve performance is removal of the pre-cat from the header. The pre-cat has a very tight, flow reducing, cell structure.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1043.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1040.JPG

The entrance also necks down to less than 2 inches ID and does not have the prettiest flow pleasing shape.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1042.JPG

I had the pre-cat replaced with open pipe, the flange ports enlarged to match my modified head’s exhaust ports, an extra O2 ring (wide band bung) added, the exit enlarged by removing the ridge of wire bead weld, and the primaries ceramic coated.
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1091.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1094.JPG
http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/gallery/files/2/0/DSCN1089.JPG

[k-huevo]

This doesn’t qualify as a tune component but it feels like it; Sprint Booster http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NME1900/AddedFrom/Search/InvDetail.cfm , http://www.sprintboostersales.com/ . It does every thing the sales literature says it does; I’m thrilled about it. With this device operating on top of the LDG flash throttle response has become telepathic.

[Ike]

Keith,

I dropped my extra header to BEGi for modification (as yours is above, minus port widening as I don't have a modified head). With removal of the pre-cat will the car throw a code or start to run rich? Will it necessitate a tune fairly soon? I'm still planning on getting a tune to take advantage of the mods I'm making, but I have a few more to add before I'm ready for it.

one-ball
JCW intake
380 injectors

BTW - I changed my oil yesterday and your "how-to" was very helpful. Thanks!!!

[justintime]

380 injectors.. do you have a pully? also you may wanna consider getting some headwork done to go along with the header
Keith,

I dropped my extra header to BEGi for modification (as yours is above, minus port widening as I don't have a modified head). With removal of the pre-cat will the car throw a code or start to run rich? Will it necessitate a tune fairly soon? I'm still planning on getting a tune to take advantage of the mods I'm making, but I have a few more to add before I'm ready for it.

one-ball
JCW intake
380 injectors

BTW - I changed my oil yesterday and your "how-to" was very helpful. Thanks!!!

[Ike]

I just purchased a dinan CAI. I don't particularly like Dinan products, but I got a good deal on it.

I do have a 15% pulley, which Keith helped me install. Sounds like I need to prioritize the injectors. I can probably pick them up mid-month (have to be careful with spending on car projects or the wife gets suspicious).

When I install my header should I purchase new gaskets or can I reuse the ones I have?

Ike

[justintime]

I just purchased a dinan CAI. I don't particularly like Dinan products, but I got a good deal on it.

I do have a 15% pulley, which Keith helped me install. Sounds like I need to prioritize the injectors. I can probably pick them up mid-month (have to be careful with spending on car projects or the wife gets suspicious).

When I install my header should I purchase new gaskets or can I reuse the ones I have?

Ike

what header are you getting? are you buying keiths? My header came with a new gasket.. if your doing the header while your there you might as well change the gasket.. imho

[Ike]

what header are you getting? are you buying keiths? My header came with a new gasket.. if your doing the header while your there you might as well change the gasket.. imho

Keith's header is a nice piece, but I opted to modify a stock header (same as Keith's earlier in this thread). I'm having the pre-cat removed and replaced with a piece of stainless steel tubing.

I'll contact SA Mini center about the gasket. I'm planning on replacing my intercooler boots this week, so I'll just pickup the gasket too.

Thanks,
Ike

[k-huevo]

A few more changes for Panda, I returned to the OE airbox, installed one colder range spark plugs, and installed a custom OE camshaft re-grind from Crower. LSMC member Nitrominis co-designed the spec for this camshaft and two other profiles with Crower based on the stock cam core.
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN1362.JPG
-------------------Stock-----------------------NitroStick----------------------------

Before installing I had a PTFE (dry film lubricant) coating applied to the cam and rocker rails.
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN1392.JPG

As a freshen-up, I also installed new rockers to get new hydraulic tappet retainers.
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN1394.JPG

The cam enhanced performance starting around 2k rpm and continues linearly to 7k rpm. This is out of the ordinary for a performance oriented design and has much to do with how it is interacting with other hardware modifications.

[mdbsat]

I want to sit in the passenger seat and let you show me how panda is running now:thumbsup