Engine Suspension Replacement

[k-huevo]

A look at the engine suspension bushings revealed some dry rot cracking on the upper engine holder/vibration damper.
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After removing the early model hydraulic mount I could see rot cracks on this piece too, also some fluid seepage was evident on the frame rail, although very minute. The scales showed only an ounce less in weight compared to new.
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Tools needed to remove and install the hydraulic mount, upper engine and lower engine holders.
18mm & 13mm deep sockets
16mm & 10mm shallow sockets
Torx E12 female socket
Phillips screw driver
Ratchet & extensions, long breaker bar or long handled ratchet
Torque wrench, range – 7ft-lb to 74ft-lb
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[k-huevo]

Engine suspension mounts:
Upper engine holder
Lower engine holder
Engine bracket mount bushing
Hydraulic mount & Torx head bolt
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There’s more than one way to approach the install and I recommend a simpler method since I’ve performed it the more complex way I’m illustrating in this how-to. The front can be driven up on ramps eliminating removing the right side wheel and optional wheel cover removing steps, and replacing the engine mount bushing can also be omitted.

The long way: put the front of the vehicle on stands and block the rear wheels. Remove the right wheel.
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Remove the lower engine holder (16mm).
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Remove the hose mount bracket from the upper engine vibration bracket (10mm) and the ground strap (13mm) from the engine mount.
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[k-huevo]

Unbolt the upper engine vibration bracket (16mm) and bend the tab to release the fuel tank vent valve.
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Unscrew the upper front coolant hose mount (10mm).
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After performing the mount bushing installation I would not attempt it again without removing the engine mount bracket from the block first. If this bushing is not badly damaged, I suggest not replacing it in order to save some major hassle. Here are the tools I used for the removal: large C-clamp, standard 36mm socket, and short bolt head for a spacer.
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[k-huevo]

For the installation I used a short profile 36mm socket on the other side and what is not shown is a band clamp around the end of the bushing to swedge the end for ease of insertion, then removed after the initial start.
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Remove the upper engine holder (16mm); an extension is needed for the rearmost bolt. On my vehicle the bolts were only hand tight which is not a good thing.
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Remove the hydraulic mount nut (18mm) and lift the engine enough to remove the lower engine holder, and replace it with the new part. In the second photo you may be able to see how smushed the hydraulic mount is. It sagged enough to create a gap between the intercooler cover and under hood duct foam strip; new mount, no gap.
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[k-huevo]

Unclip the wheel sensor wire and move out of the way, if the install is conducted with the vehicle on ramps, only the clip closest to the bolt needs disconnecting. Also, the Torx head bolt can be accessed with a long extension. Unbolt the hydraulic mount to chassis Torx bolt (E12).
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I recommend removing the engine mount bracket rather than lifting the engine the distance needed to remove and install the hydraulic mount; if the bracket remains on the block, the engine must go way up there to clear both ends of the mount.
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Place the mount in the chassis hole and lower the engine till it lightly rests on the mount. Install a new bolt, torque to 41ft-lb plus a 90˚ turn. The torque angle step is where a long extension comes in handy, avoiding contact with the brake rotor interrupting the swing, and a long handle on the end will provide much needed leverage.
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Lower the engine. Install the upper engine holder with a small amount of anti-seize on the bolt threads, torque to 60 ft-lb. The Bentley calls for 74ft-lb but the holder bolts are only metric grade 8.8 so I’m suggesting a torque value appropriate for the grade designation. Screw on the hydraulic mount nut and torque at 50ft-lb. The upper engine vibration bracket and lower engine holder require 74ft-lb torque values. Fasten or clip anything else back in place.