Brake Fluid Flush

[k-huevo]

Brake fluid should be changed out at no more than two year intervals. Competition use or environmental extremes would dictate more frequent fluid flushes. Because the clutch slave shares the same reservoir as the brake master it should be flushed along with the brake calipers.

Pressure bleed tools & equipment:
10mm open end, bleeder, or box end wrench, 11mm offset box end or ratcheting wrench
10mm socket, extension or deepset socket, ratchet
Phillips screw driver
Pressure bleeder
Catch bottle
Clutch bleed tool 90-88-6-215-030, or wood block to wedge against the actuator arm


Lift the vehicle, place it on stands, and remove the wheels. Attach the pressure bleeder to the fluid reservoir and test for leaks; don’t exceed 14 psi.



Fill the pressure bleeder with two liters of fluid. Ate TYP 200 and Super Blue are the same fluid, but Super Blue has a dye added.

[k-huevo]

Connect the bleeder to the reservoir and pressurize, starting with the right rear caliper, attach the catch bottle hose and open the bleeder using a 10mm wrench. If using a different colored fluid, the brake line and caliper are flushed when the newer fluid begins to show in the bottle, or it fills with at least a quarter liter. From the right rear move to the left rear, then right front caliper, and left front, bleed the clutch slave last. I do another round of bleeds at the end just in case any bubbles have become dislodged.


To access the clutch slave the lower splash panel has to be removed, for vehicles using the aero bumper, the cover must be removed also.


Remove the clutch slave and depress the piston with the bleeder tool, or wedge a block of wood against the actuator arm. Open the bleeder with an 11mm box end wrench. Notice the blue at the bottom of the catch bottle from the last change interval’s fluid. After bleeding the clutch slave remove the clutch bleeder tool, and the pressure bleeder from the reservoir; push the clutch pedal 12 times slowly.


After the fluid flush is complete, rinse the pressure bleeder equipment with denatured alcohol.

[k-huevo]

This is an important step often overlooked; change the bleeder dust caps when cracked or loose, they are the first line of defense against moisture ingress (brake fluid is hydroscopic). My first caps needed to be replaced very early but others have lasted 30,000 miles plus. Generic caps will work better than no caps; the MINI caps – front 34-11-0-141-352, rear 34-11-0-141-353.

[scuderia]

i love your DYIs Keith, invaluable

[mdbsat]

Originally Posted by scuderia

i love your DYIs Keith, invaluable

Seriously!

Thanks Keith

[justintime]

is there a way to do it without having the pressure tool? for instance having someome compress the brake pedal or what not? I got my fluid im just waiting to bleed it

[k-huevo]

Yes,

Gravity method – open the bleeder valve, wait, keep the reservoir filled.

Pump, press, and hold method – have an assistant pump the pedal, press the pedal hard, open the valve, when the pedal hits the floor, hold, close the bleeder, repeat, keep the reservoir filled.